“Far better is it to dare mighty things…than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much.” This quote, attributed to firebrand former president Teddy Roosevelt and emblazoned on the side of The Brewing Projekt’s IPA, has long been used as a kick-in-the-ass motivational slogan and shield against the powers of naysayers. These words were the inspiration for the Wisconsin brewery to chase an unattainable dragon—the undeniable hazy IPA.
Hazy as it’s supposed to be, Dare Mighty Things is just a shade more brown than your run-of-the-trend New England-style IPA. Still, it’s an attractive golden-brown, the color of Nebraska wheat. You can nearly taste the gummy, glutenous consistency from the body. The eye bathes in Dare Mighty Things’ flaxen porridge body, for better, or perhaps, for worse.
It has many seductive qualities—among them is its resolve for greatness—but when that cloud of hops dissipated, what’s left is underwhelming.”
The fruit flavors in this beer greet the tastebuds with Willy Wonka-like pageantry. Waterfalls of passionfruit and rainbows of guava seduce the nose in this sumptuous fruit bomb. Never has the indomitability of Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo hops been so prominent as it is here, with the typically dank El Dorado flavor being sandblasted into a whisper.
Below the Juicy Fruit flavors, there’s nearly any residual bitterness, just more of that same sticky fruit. The experience of drinking this beer is a mostly incredible trip—a full-throated awakening that flows from your lips through your gullet. However, that kaleidoscope of experience flattens in the beer’s finish. Dry and sharp, it’s an odd finale for a beer that stands so proudly in the eyes and nose.
It is one thing to dare to be mighty; it’s another to achieve mightiness. The Brewing Projekt’s tentpole IPA is a valiant effort. It has many seductive qualities—among them is its resolve for greatness—but when that cloud of hops dissipated, what’s left is underwhelming. Ultimately, the missing elements outweigh those present. Maybe one of the several Dare Mighty Things variants on the market strike closer to that ideal. Either way, the chase continues.