Raving about Magnify Brewing Company is a requirement for a New Jersey craft beer lover. I’ve done it in the past, and I’m about to do it again. Typically known for its top-tier IPAs, Magnify often steps out of the haze into other categories. In the case, it’s a gose. Not one to shy away from flavor, Magnify put its own spin on the gose by adding mango, passion fruit and cherry puree to create Trade Proof.
Each 16-oz. can in the four pack looks slightly different. Since they decided to “bomb this beer out” with so much fruit puree—and it has the potential to explode if not stored correctly—the front of the cans feature a ticking time bomb. The timer on the dynamite varies from can to can, beginning with a digital :03, then :02, :01, until finally the explosion on the last can blasts all over label. The beer in each can is the same, though. A deep, beet-juice-red-purple coats the interior of the glass. The beer is so densely opaque that not even my phone’s flashlight shines through. It’s a definite contrast to the light and bright goses I’m used to.
This is a great gose for those hesitant to try the style.”
This may be the least beer-scented beer I’ve ever had. It could be my mind playing tricks on me because of the color, but it smells a bit like a candied beets. The earthiness from the salinity, combined with the fermentable sugars due to the late addition of fruit, manifests itself into an adult version of a fruit punch juice box. It’s a sweet scent, but not artificially so.
With the first sip, the sweetness from the fruits comes out, but is reigned in by the kettle sour base of the beer. Passion fruit and mango purees immediately build a presence on the palate, but are toned down by the tartness of the cherries. As a result, the flavor is nearly perfectly balanced. Not too sweet, not too sour. The back end of the flavor profile provides the gose-like salinity that leaves me reaching for more.
Trade Proof is an exceptional example of a gose. At 4.5% ABV, it’s drinkable yet flavorful. This is a great gose for those hesitant to try the style. I won’t call it a “gose for beginners”, because there’s nothing novice about this complex beer. However, it is one of the most memorable and unique beers I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying.